An Adventure In The Peruvian Andes

Lodge-to-lodge across the Peruvian Andes

By Amar Grover

Published: March 13 2010 00:29 | Last updated: March 13 2010 00:29

A glacial lake below Salkantay Peak, Peru

The “guilty” moment came early. It was dusk and a forlorn-looking walker trudged nearby. Wearily, she turned to ask if we had seen the rest of her group and their campsite. We had, I answered, as humbly as is possible when standing in an outdoor Jacuzzi, its steam swirling about my torso.

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Nearly 4,000 metres up in the Peruvian Andes and with a vast glistening peak filling the head of the valley, this is not ordinarily Jacuzzi territory. Yet comfort, if not a dash of luxury, have now reached this outpost. Mountain Lodges ofPeru, based in Lima, claims to offer “the first trans-Andean lodge-to-lodge trek”, a four-day walk along the Salkantay Trail. A scenic half-hour train ride at the end of the trek takes you to Machu Picchu village from where you can visit the ruins by mini-bus.

Like the nearby and more famous Inca Trail, these routes have long been the preserve of backpackers. Rudimentary campsites and a cheap-and-cheerful approach coupled with the lure of South America’s most celebrated sight have proved irresistible. The resultant environmental and ecological pressures are well-known: a permit system for the overcrowded Inca Trail was introduced in 2005 in order to cap numbers.

The Salkantay Trail is a fine alternative. One of many ancient Inca routes that weave across rugged tracts of the Andes, we were to climb the stark shoulders of Salkantay Peak, cross its lofty pass and then descend a series of lush river valleys. Many campers rush through the region. The lodges, meanwhile, encourage a more leisurely pace, with simple though comfortable twin rooms, a communal lounge and dining area, wholesome food and the enviable pleasure of a warm shower.

Acclimatisation is key. Following a morning’s drive from Cusco to the first – and, with 12 rooms, largest – lodge at Soraypampa, our group (comprising mostly Americans, an Italian couple and a Brazilian) spent the next day and a half either relaxing or taking short walks. Raul, our guide, led us along a small aqueduct high above the main valley. We paused to examine ichu grass, whose blades were commonly wound together and used by Incas to make incredible rope bridges. We saw macha macha berries whose high sugar – and hence alcohol – content on hot sunny days could reputedly stupefy animals. Pisco sours, the national drink, awaited our return along with a hearty meal and some of the clearest night skies I have ever seen.

In preparation for the first and most demanding day’s hike, most of our 12-strong group headed off for the morning into a steep side valley past tiny shepherds’ huts and stone-walled corrals. Within an amphitheatre of jagged Andean peaks, we climbed up to an austerely beautiful glacial lake to join a handful of grazing cows. When the sun shone, the lake gleamed a supernatural turquoise.

The real trail discipline started early next morning, setting a routine for the coming days. Breakfast was a standard array of fruit, cereals, eggs, bread and cakes along with a few indigenous items such as kiwicha, or amaranth grains. “Very rich in protein,” said Raul catching my puzzled look.

As our bags were loaded on to mules, we gathered in the dazzling early winter sunshine and then set off up the valley towards the majestic Salkantay Peak. Within a kilometre, the meadows had thinned and we began climbing through a stark ravine. Sixty minutes later, we paused at a small pampa, or meadow, and unpeeled a few layers of clothing to cool down. Raul announced that the real climb started here – about seven vertiginous switchbacks with dramatic views down the valley towards our first lodge. He indicated barren mountainsides where just 10 years earlier glaciers were longer, peaks snowier. For Raul there was no doubting the effects of climate change.

We shouldered our day-packs once more, paused for dried fruit and chocolate at Soyroccocha, and began a final assault on the 4,500-metre Salkantay Pass.

Salkantay means “wildest place” in the native Andean language Quechua. Billowing clouds suffused with sunlight lent an ever-changing panorama of mottled peaks and ridges, seductive reminders that nature was firmly in charge. The trail soon plunged into a seemingly bottomless ravine, and, just before it levelled out in a valley braided with streams, we stopped for lunch in our mess tent. It seemed we couldn’t eat enough.

Wayra, our second lodge, lay about an hour away at a place called Huayraccmachay. We deposited our boots in its porch (they were cleaned for us by the next morning) and sunk into comfortable chairs by a wood-burning stove for tea, coffee and cake. The place grew even cosier as clouds lowered to envelope the outside world.

The next day dawned, bright and clear as usual. Humantay and Tucarhuay peaks soared at the head of the valley. But today was less about mountains than an extraordinary change in vegetation and climate. Raul’s knowledge of flora and fauna seemed as dense as the forests we would soon pass. Within minutes we had seen several exquisite hummingbirds with names like Great Sapphirewing and Sparkling Violetear.

Bright yellow mimosa soon lent our surroundings a brilliant dash of colour, while clumps of bamboo grew more profuse until archways of the stuff shaded patches of the trail. It grew warmer, then hotter, and little biting flies became more persistent without repellent. By mid-morning, we glimpsed sloping green fields in the Rio Santa Teresa valley ahead and reached our next lodge at Collpapampa before lunch.

Lucmabamba lodge, our final sleeping spot, stands amid groves of coffea plants. The ancient paved section of Inca trail that passes its boundary was a tantalising reminder of our proximity to Machu Picchu.

There was one last climb, a long but glorious ascent high above the valley to the jungly Llactapata Pass. A little below it on the far side lay Patallacta, an eerie spot with many ruined Inca buildings. A dry water channel led away from a part-restored temple’s trapezoidal doorway. It seemed – perhaps intentionally – to draw one’s eyes to a distant view of Machu Picchu, which clung to implausibly steep hills against snowy peaks. It was unforgettable.

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Details

Amar Grover visited Peru as a guest of Latin America specialist Sunvil Traveller(www.sunvil.co.uk, +44 (0)20 8758 4774) which offers tailored itineraries to Peru, including Mountain Lodges of Peru’s Salkantay Trail. A 10-night trip (with five nights at MLP lodges and a visit to Machu Picchu) costs from £3,135 per person including excursions and international flights.

It is best to visit Peru between April and November though the clearest, driest weather is from May to September. Note that June to August is the peak tourist season. The approximately 32-mile trek is rated “moderate to challenging”. Visitors should ideally be in good health and reasonably fit.