36 Hours in Rio De Janeiro

LATIN AMERICA ISSUE
36 Hours in Rio de Janeiro

André Vieira for The New York Times
The London-themed Baretto-Londra bar in the Hotel Fasano. More Photos »
By ARIC CHEN
Published: September 16, 2010

WITH the World Cup coming in 2014, followed by the Olympic Games two years later, Rio de Janeiro is thinking outside the beach. The historic port area is undergoing an extreme makeover, and museums by such vanguard architects as Santiago Calatrava and Diller Scofidio + Renfro are in the works. A long-anticipated bullet train to São Paulo seems to be finally happening, while the city is making strides (albeit fitful ones) tackling the problems of its notorious favelas. Indeed, there will always be sunshine, thongs and Carnaval, but these days, Rio has a whole lot more to strut about.
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A Weekend in Rio de Janeiro

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Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Friday

3 p.m.
1) CONCRETE CURVES

Long before the future arrived, Oscar Niemeyer was building it. Rio’s most famous architect (age 102 and counting) is best known for his work designing the capital of Brasília, but visitors need only go to São Conrado, about a 20-minute drive from the city center, to see Casa das Canoas (Estrada das Canoas 2.310, São Conrado; 55-21-3322-3581). Now home to the Niemeyer Foundation, this is the house the architect built for himself in 1953. Its curvaceous roof and jutting rock formations can be ogled only on Tuesdays through Fridays, from 1 to 5 p.m.

8 p.m.
2) SEAFOOD BY THE SEA

Continue the ogling over dinner at the Philippe Starck-designed Hotel Fasano (Avenida Vieira Souto 80; 55-21-3202-4000; fasano.com.br), right on Ipanema beach. Its seafood restaurant, Fasano Al Mare, serves dishes like crispy tuna with white beans, cream and red onions (78 reais, about $46 at 1.70 Brazilian reais to the dollar), while its breezy interior sheds a flattering light on the glamour pusses within. Afterward, head to the hotel’s London-themed bar, Baretto-Londra, for a nightcap.

11 p.m.
3) LAPA CRAWL

Have a second wind? This city parties late, so join the students, bohemians, yuppies and just-plain locals reveling in the streets of Lapa. This historic, charmingly shabby neighborhood in central Rio goes late into the night with plentiful street food — and cheap drinks. Duck into popular samba clubs like Rio Scenarium (Rua do Lavradio 20; 55-21-3147-9005; rioscenarium.com.br) and the intimate Carioca da Gema (Rua Mem de Sá 79; 55-21-2221-0043; barcariocadagema.com.br). Or just bar hop your way to tomorrow.

Saturday

10 a.m.
4) WATERFRONT BARGAINS

Time for some rummaging. Saturday mornings mean the flea market at Praça 15 de Novembro, along the waterfront in Rio’s historic heart of Centro. Browse the standard offerings of old china, vinyl records and secondhand clothing — but also the crafts, colonial-style knickknacks and other local curiosities you won’t find elsewhere. Don’t forget to haggle.

Noon
5) FROM THE HEIGHTS

Take the antique tram called the bonde uphill to the cobbled, winding streets of leafy Santa Teresa. Known for its crumbling mansions, some converted into museums and bed-and-breakfasts, this artsy, once-neglected enclave has come back to life. Consider the newish Hotel Santa Teresa (Rua Almirante Alexandrino 660; 55-21-3380-0200; santa-teresa-hotel.com), a former coffee plantation turned luxury retreat. Wander the artisanal shops and restaurants on the main drag of Rua Almirante Alexandrino. Have lunch there, or continue uphill to the thatched-roof pavilions of Aprazível (Rua Aprazível 62; 55-21-2508-9174; aprazivel.com.br) for the spectacular views and bacalhau do pai (71 reais), a cod pastry dish filling enough for two.

3 p.m.
6) ART CENTRO

History meets contemporary art in Centro. Just across from the flea market, the 18th-century Paço Imperial (Praça 15 de Novembro 48; 55-21-2215-2622; pacoimperial.com.br) mounts excellent exhibitions like the recent one on Gordon Matta-Clark. Not far away is the former bank headquarters that’s now the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (Rua Primeiro de Março 66; 55-21-3808-2020; bb.com.br/cultura), where you might find, say, a Rebecca Horn retrospective. The area is also home to a growing number of galleries. Don’t miss A Gentil Carioca (Rua Gonçalves Ledo 17; 55-21-2222-1651; agentilcarioca.com.br), an experimental space run by three artists including the Brazilian art star Ernesto Neto.

5:30 p.m.
7) A DIFFERENT VIEW

Forget those postcard-perfect views from Sugar Loaf and the Corcovado. This summer, as part of an effort to better integrate the favelas with the city, Rio unveiled a gleaming elevator tower that rises more than 20 stories to connect upscale Ipanema with the favela of Cantagalo above. At the corner of Rua Teixeira de Melo and Rua Barão da Torre, just off Praça General Osório, this progressive piece of architecture has an observation deck with views across Ipanema and Copacabana. Guards may stop you from taking a second set of elevators to the favela proper. But at least you’ve gotten as close as you’re likely to get on your own.

9:30 p.m.
8) GOURMET ALLEY

The peacocks of Rio flock to the Leblon area for dinner, specifically Rua Dias Ferreira. On a one-block stretch, you can choose from the always-busy Sushi Leblon (No. 256; 55-21-2512-7830; sushileblon.com), with its sometimes exotic sushi offerings (think quail egg and truffles, 11 to 22 reais), and Quadrucci (No. 233; 55-21-2512-4551; quadrucci.com.br), with its Italian takes like shrimp risotto with mango, mascarpone and arugula (47 reais). For other nouvelle concoctions, head for Zuka (No. 233b; 55-21-3205-7154; zuka.com.br) and try the white fish and pepper ceviche (27 reais) and rack of lamb with passion-fruit mashed potatoes (79 reais).

Midnight
9) SHABBY OR CHIC?

As Rio revamps its port, the docklands district of Gamboa is turning into a night-life hub that aims to compete with Lapa. (Still, the area can be a bit sketchy, so know where you’re going.) With a lively, down-to-earth crowd in a rustic 19th-century building, Trapiche Gamboa (Rua Sacadura Cabral 155; 55-21-2516-0868; trapichegamboa.com.br) is one of the city’s most popular samba spots. Or for a gay mega-party, cross the street to the Week (Rua Sacadura Cabral 154; 55-21-2253-1020; theweek.com.br), a São Paulo import for the muscle-boy and D.J.-groupie crowd. Alternatively, take a taxi to the Urca area and Zozô (Avenida Pasteur 520, Praia Vermelha; 55-21-2295-5659; zozorio.com.br). Dramatically situated by the beach, adjacent to the Sugar Loaf cable car station, this restaurant turns into a weekend after-dinner lounge and dance club where a posh crowd of 30-something Brazilians do what they do best: look good.

Sunday

11 a.m.
10) BRUNCH SET

Long night? Haul yourself over to Escola do Pão (Rua General Garzon 10; 55-21-2294-0027; escoladopao.com.br), run by a mother-and-daughter team that has turned this former home — once belonging to the Brazilian writer José Lins do Rego — into a French-style bistro, bakery, cooking school and labor of love. Settle into its cozy interior of cast-iron columns and tropical flourishes. Then start nibbling on the cavalcade of fresh fruit drinks, cheese gratins, finger sandwiches, light-as-air eggs and impeccable breads that make up its 62-real prix-fixe brunch.

12:30 p.m.
11) LAGOON TO GARDEN

Time for some air. Stroll along the lagoa (lagoon) — Escola do Pão sits right on its shore — or take the short walk to the Jardim Botânico (Rua Jardim Botânico 1008; 55-21-3874-1808; www.jbrj.gov.br; 5 reais). This impressive botanical garden, founded in 1808 by Dom João VI of Portugal, retains its imperial stateliness with rows of royal palms, ponds, monuments and orchid-filled greenhouses. Not a bad way to wind down.

IF YOU GO

Several airlines including TAM, United and Continental fly direct from Kennedy airport to Rio. A recent Web search showed round-trip tickets starting at around $1,057 for travel this month.

Opened in 2007, the 89-room Hotel Fasano (Avenida Vieira Souto 80; 55-21-3202-4000; fasano.com.br) is Philippe Starck’s splashy contribution to Ipanema’s waterfront, with hardwood floors and Brazilian modernist furniture. There’s a rooftop infinity pool and a new spa. Doubles start at 1,200 reais ($710 at 1.70 Brazilian reais to the dollar).

The Ipanema Plaza (Rua Farme de Amoedo 34; 55-21-3687-2000; ipanemaplaza.com.br) is a favorite of the fashion crowd and is close to the gay section of the beach. The 140 spacious rooms start at 435 reais.

Copacabana isn’t what it used to be. But for a good value, try the new 135-room Arena Copacabana (Avenida Atlantica 2064; 55-21- 3034-1501; arenahotel.com.br), which opened last year with spare yet comfortable modern rooms right on the beach. Standard rooms start at 330 reais.

A version of this article appeared in print on September 19, 2010, on